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Questions about our products | After-sales FAQ | Analyser/ZoneMaster FAQ | Ordering info FAQ
General questions about our products
I can't decide between a StopClock Professional and an Analyser Pro. Can you help?
Our answer to this one is another question - 'what sort of printer are you?' For people who are interested in getting high quality prints with a minimum of effort and material wastage we recommend the Analyser Pro. Those who like to wring the last drop out of the negative by making several exposures, perhaps at different grades, on the same print will prefer the StopClock Professional. Fine Art printers typically fall into this category.
What are the relative merits of the Analyser Pro vs the Heiland SplitGrade System?
The difference is best likened to that between an automatic-exposure camera and a hand-held spotmeter. The SplitGrade system is highly automated and as such can deliver good quality prints from most negatives, but it can be caught out by for example a picture of a fried egg on a white plate - much like the auto-exposure camera it will deliver 90% of the time but you need to be aware of its limitations. It does of course have full manual override for such circumstances. The Analyser Pro is, like a spotmeter, more accurate and can place mid tones with precision, but requires more care in use and in initial setting up. The 'learning curve' is perhaps steeper than that of the SplitGrade. In short - if your negatives mostly have a full range of tones then the SplitGrade will deliver, but if not then an Analyser Pro might be the better choice. Typically, portrait photographers would be better off with an Analyser Pro because flesh tones can be precisely placed on the grey scale.
What's involved in calibration of the Analyser Pro / ZoneMaster?
Basically, you need to make test strips at the white end to establish any exposure compensation, then make test strips at the black end to adjust the contrast. The products incorporate a test strip mode which generates the necessary time sequences automatically. The new Calibration Kit makes the process much easier than previously.
Is the timer section of the Analyser Pro the same as the StopClock Professional?
No. It is essentially identical to the StopClock LE. It has one channel and does not have the programmable exposure sequences. It also does not have the Dry-Down feature but this is not necessary as the exposure is determined based on the final dry print tones indicated on the grey scale.
What features of the StopClock Professional are missing from the Analyser Pro's timer?
Basically, the second channel, the programmable exposure sequences and the dry-down compensation. More minor features include the alternative test strip and safelight modes, the audible beep, and switchable lamp saver.
What benefits would I get from the StopClock Professional over the LE version?
Flexibility, programmability, precision. The Professional version offers programmed sequences of exposures so that once you've decided on the exposures needed for a print they can all be entered into the timer's memory. You can then concentrate on the image. In particular, multiple copies of complex prints are very easy to make as the timer retains the entire sequence in its memory. Split grade printing is easier owing to the second timing channel. And the higher resolution of 1/24 stop can actually be seen on the print, particularly at higher contrast grades.
Are your timers suitable for cold cathode (cold light) heads?
Yes. All our enlarger timer products use heavy-duty relays with 10A contact rating, and surge ratings in excess of 80A. In addition, the StopClock Vario can compensate for the light level fluctuations typical of such heads.
Is the ZoneMaster's metering system the same as the Analyser Pro's?
Yes, they're identical.
My enlarger has an Ilford Multigrade head. Can I use an Analyser or StopClock Professional with it?
You cannot use the standard version of these products - the Ilford head does not have provision for an external timer. You can choose an Analyser 500 or StopClock 500, either of which will replace the Ilford control pad. If you want to keep the Ilford control pad you can use a ZoneMaster and transfer the grade and time readings to it.
My Durst/Kaiser/Other enlarger's lamp seems to take half a second or so to come on. Will this cause inaccuracies?
This delay is inherent in some stabilised transformers and normally makes it very difficult to match a final print to a test strip. All our timers can compensate for this so that for example two 5 second exposures will produce the same density as a single 10 second exposure.
What are the differences between the StopClock Professional and the Vario version?
The Vario loses the ability to connect to a ZoneMaster but will compensate for enlarger light output variations. They are otherwise identical.
Why can't a Vario connect to a ZoneMaster?
The Vario reads the lamp output and adjusts the exposure time to compensate for variations, so for example if the lamp output falls the exposure time is increased. The ZoneMaster, like any exposure meter, also reads the lamp output and if it falls, the meter will suggest a longer exposure time (all other things being equal). Consequently, the combination of the ZoneMaster and Vario will over-compensate for lamp variations. The ZoneMaster relies on a constant lamp output in order to determine the density variations in the negative correctly and thereby calculate the tonal range. The Vario does not have a connector for a ZoneMaster as a result. You can use a ZoneMaster with a Vario-controlled cold light, but make sure the light is well warmed up before attempting to do so and ensure a minimum of time elapses between taking the measurements and making the exposure.
I have a cold light head and a halogen head. Can the Vario be used on the halogen head without the light sensor?
Yes. It will automatically switch to normal timing mode if the sensor is disconnected.
How do I connect my enlarger to the timer? 
We supply the necessary connectors which conform to the emerging industry standard CEE22 format. You may have seen these plugs on electric kettles, personal computers etc. You can see them in this picture. The timer is a mains switch, so you must retain any transformer that might be included with your enlarger. Whatever you normally plug into the mains, you plug into the timer's 'Enlarger' socket. Customers in North America and other areas that use the USA-style 3-pin power socket can use an adaptor (please note we have no connection with this company nor have we tested their product.) These adaptors are sold as “PC Monitor Power Adaptors” and may be available elsewhere in computer stores - they are used to connect the monitor’s power plug to the computer’s AC output socket.
I have a DeVere enlarger with a Transtab power supply. How do I connect this to the timer?
We can supply a lead assembly which connects to the 8-way power connector on the Transtab unit. You need to ensure that the "Focus" switch on the Transtab unit is set to "off" for correct timer operation.
I have a sodium-type safelight (e.g. Thomas Duplex or Kaiser Duka 50). Can I use this with the Analyser / ZoneMaster?
These safelights cannot be switched off and then on again quickly; the lamp does not re-strike properly. If you have a safelight of this type you will need either to switch it off permanently (and use a conventional safelight) or arrange some type of mechanical shutter to shut off its light during measurements. All exposure meters will be affected by safe lighting, even those which claim immunity, so for best results the safelight must be switched off during measurements. The Analyser can do this automatically for you if you wire a conventional tungsten or LED safelight to it. Sodium-type safelights have no real advantages over conventional ones for monochrome work.
Questions about our products | After-sales FAQ | Analyser/ZoneMaster FAQ
Frequent after-sales enquiries
My enlarger uses a transformer; do I still need this?
Yes. All our timer products simply act as a power on-off switch so whatever you used to plug into the mains, you now plug into the timer's 'Enlarger' socket. The transformer is used to change the high voltage mains supply to a lower voltage for the enlarger lamp.
Can I wire more than one safelight into the timer?
Yes, subject to the provision that the total load on the timer (enlarger plus safelights) must not exceed the rated maximum stated on the rear panel of the unit.
Can I wall mount the timer?
The StopClock Professional / Vario and the Analyser Pro have fixings in the baseplate which accept M4 size screws, allowing them to be fixed to a bracket of your choice. The StopClock LE does not have fixings but can be shelf-mounted. All units can be mounted vertically or at an angle if required without affecting operation.
The compensation function on my StopClock Vario doesn’t seem to be working
Check that the “Sensor” light is illuminated. In order to activate the compensation function you must first switch the enlarger on using the “Focus” key, and then switch it off again. The “Sensor” light should then be illuminated. In normal printing, this will happen automatically when you compose and focus the image but people often forget to do this when checking the unit out. If the “Sensor” light is not illuminated, the Vario is operating in non-compensating “seconds” mode.
Questions about our products | After-sales FAQ | Analyser/ZoneMaster FAQ
Analyser / ZoneMaster FAQ
The safelight does not go out when I switch on the enlarger using the Focus button on my Analyser
Correct. The safelight will go out during printing and when taking a measurement. It remains on otherwise so that you can read the greyscale more easily. In the latest software version (6.2) the safelight can be programmed to switch off whenever the enlarger is switched on.
When I take a reading using the 'Measure' button, the display freezes on the density display and doesn't show a new exposure time
You are pressing the button for too long and entering Densitometer mode. To take a reading, press and release the button briefly. Holding the button down for one second or longer will enter Densitometer mode. To exit that mode, press and hold the Measure button again for more than one second.
Occasionally, the probe takes ages to settle and the time display shows 240sec
Make sure you don't move the probe until the reading has settled. If you move it outside the image area the probe will be trying to read darkness! Press the Measure button briefly, then keep the probe still until the safelight is switched back on (Analyser only) and the display shows the new exposure time.
Successive readings from the same point are inconsistent
Your enlarger's light output is varying. Even tungsten-halogen bulbs drift as they warm up - ensure the enlarger is well warmed up before starting a printing session. Check that the connections to the lamp are clean and it’s properly seated in its holder; corrosion is common in the often damp environment of a darkroom. Alternatively, you may have voltage variations on your mains supply, caused by other devices switching on and off during a printing session. Consider a voltage stabiliser for your enlarger.
My prints are always much too dark or too light
Check that you are metering in white light and then replacing the filters before making the print. This is the most common cause - I even forget to do it myself from time to time :-) The second most common cause is forgetting to turn out all the safelights when metering (particularly with the ZoneMaster). If that does not solve the problem, your Analyser requires calibrating to match your enlarger and materials.
I'm using the recommended Ilford paper and filters but my prints are still too dark / too light
Light sources, developers, and many other factors can affect print exposure. It is by no means unusual to find that some exposure compensation is required especially if you're using a cold light enlarger. If after consulting the calibration information here and in the users manual you're still unsure, contact us for advice.
My portrait (or other image) has too much contrast, what am I doing wrong?
This is quite a common issue with new users and it’s to do with interpreting the grey scale. In a portrait for example, the brightest tone in the image might be a brightly lit area of pale skin. The meter will initially assume this is a highlight and place it at the extreme white end of the grey scale, because it doesn’t know any better. But you do! Increase the exposure setting to move the tone down the scale to the desired shade of grey. The opposite applies if your image doesn’t have a really deep black.
I think I've messed up the calibration in my meter. How do I restore the factory settings?
Simply press 'Clear' while in calibration mode. Exposure compensation and contrast modes and each of the eight paper channels are cleared separately. For example, if you want to clear PAP4, first select PAP4 using short presses of the Cal button. Now press and hold Cal until "CAL" appears on the display. Press Clear, then Focus, then Clear again, then Focus again. PAP4 is now reset to factory calibration (=Ilford MG4 / filters).
I'm using a chromogenic film (e.g. Ilford XP2, Kodak T400CN). How will this affect the meter?
These films can have enough colouration in the base and image to affect the contrast on variable contrast papers. You may need to print at 0.5 to 1.0 grade higher contrast than the meter's suggestion with Ilford and 1.0 to 1.5 grades with Kodak. Since these negatives do not scatter light in the same way as silver based emulsions, the transmission density reading taken by projection will be less contrasty than a conventional transmission density reading. In addition with Kodak's T400CN, the orange base material of the negative reduces the effective speed of the paper by about 1 stop. If you regularly use this type of film consider dedicating one or more calibration channels to it.
I develop my negatives in a staining developer (e.g. Pyro). Will this have an effect?
We’ve found that, perhaps surprisingly, the stain doesn’t affect variable contrast papers very much. Its effects tend to be more pronounced on fixed grade papers. However, because of the nature of the stain it’s often inconsistent so the best advice we can offer is to “try it and see”!
What about Cold Light (Cold Cathode) Enlargers?
Because of the high blue-green light efficiency of these units, exposure times can be about 1-3 stops shorter than predicted. This high sensitivity catches some users out, since the normal test strip calibration method will be a long way off the correct setting unless some compensation is added. Start with one or two stops of negative exposure compensation as a coarse adjustment which can then be refined by the usual calibration methods.
Questions about our products | After-sales FAQ | Analyser/ZoneMaster FAQ
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